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On 5 April 2003, Northwood Hills was pelted by two waves of golfball-sized hail. Some parts of the Dallas Metroplex got larger hail, and other areas got nothing at all. Needless to say, these spiny hailstones had the potential to totally destroy a roof (as far as the insurance companies are concerned). Caveat: while those hail stones would also pummel an automobile (or a person!) this page does not address anything other than roofs.

Different sections of the same roof can be different "pitches"; flat roofs are more susceptible to hail damage. Steep roofs are slower to repair, as the workers have to suspend themselves with cables, to keep from falling off. This is why two roofs of the same size may cost very different!

One roofer told me of an estimate of 450,000 homes damaged severely enough to merit a new roof. Since the webmaster here is one of those affected, he thought it useful to document some of the lessons learned.

Your additional information is most welcomed; Also, this information may not be 100% accurate; if you spot an error, email the webmaster.

Lessons Learned

Detecting damage

1. Never assume.
2. To the untrained eye, it's difficult to tell if your roof has been damaged. Looking from the ground, I didn't see any holes in my roof and falsely assumed everything was okay. I was shocked to hear that my roof had been "totalled" and that a new roof was in order.
3. If you notice that your neighbors are getting a new roof, you may also need one.
4. Many homeowners will assume that no leaks now, means no leaks later. Because the shingles have been penetrated by the hail, water can seep underneath and will eventually freeze (this winter) and cause leaks months after the storm.
5. Based on averages, a house in Texas will need a new roof in somewhat less than 10 years.
6. I know someone in Lucas, Texas who has replaced two roofs in 9 years (and may be facing a 3rd roof, based on this recent storm).
7. Flatter roofs are more susceptible to hail damage than steep roofs, all other things being equal.

Insurance

1. The insurance companies know this is a major disaster. For the next several weeks, they have special teams working in the area to deal with this catastrophe.
2. Do you need a new roof? The ultimate authority is the insurance adjuster. If you suspect hail damage, call your insurance company, and they will send an inspector to climb onto your roof and make that determination.
   1. Ask the adjuster to check all your external property, including your fence, outbuildings, and your gutters
   2. Most insurance policies provide 10% of the coverage for your non-primary structures.
3. Different insurance companies calculate losses differently! Company A may say a roof is "totalled" if there are 6 damaged areas within a square, while Company B may say it's if there are 5 damaged areas.
4. You will be out of pocket something.
   1. Some homeowner policies have 1% deductibles, while more expensive policies have a stated deductible (commonly $1000).
   2. Unless you have a lot of claims, it is more financially prudent to buy a policy with a 1% deductible, but this means that you will be responsible for a sizable amount (1% of $400,000 is $4000).
   3. Be careful around contractors who market themselves as being able to recover your deductible.
5. Your insurance company will pay the claim based on the quality of shingles currently on your roof.
6. Do not assume you have the best shingles, based on a prior job. A roofer told me that my prior shingles were (on a 1-10 scale) a quality 3, when I assumed they were a 7. Hmm.
7. It is okay to use a better quality shingle as the replacement, but this additional amount is not covered by insurance (however, subsequent claims will be based on the replacement shingle).
8. Assuming you opt for removal of the existing roof, the insurance company will give you 2 calculations of the amount of roofing material involved: remove and replace.
   1. the remove number is the actual stuff on your roof
   2. the replace.number is the size of your roof plus 15% (waste from cutting)
   3. It is illogical that these numbers are identical; if your insurance company says they are, ask them to think again
9. If your roof was damaged, you will get one (or two) checks from your insurance company.
   1. Many companies will provide a first check for the amount of damage.
   2. The 2nd check will be sent only after you repair the damage. If you choose to pocket the cash and make no repairs, you get no second check (for the reimbursable depreciation)
10. You must file a claim within one year of the damage (but, the sooner, the better).
11. After you get your check(s) from the insurance company, it is up to you to choose a roofing contractor.
12. Remember where I said (in #2 above) that the ultimate authority is the insurance adjuster? Well, what happens if you disagree with the insurance company's adjuster? You can contact a public insurance adjuster, but it will cost you a fee of 10-15% (much better than zero). See the National Association of Public Insurance Adjuster web site.

Roofers

1. Get at least 3 bids.
   1. It is not unusual to see a 50% difference from one company to the next (several thousand dollars).
   2. The lowest bid may not be your best choice.
   3. One contractor may choose to match another company's lower bid; it doesn't hurt to ask.
   4. Red flag: any contractor who wants money before the job is complete.
   5. Verify the references! Ask if they would do business with that roofer again.
2. There are many "fly by night" roofing companies. They are called "stormers" in the industry; they set up shop after a hailstorm, and will be gone within a year (off to the next disaster). So much for a multi-year guarantee!
3. Check with the BBB (Better Business Bureau) if in doubt. Many of these stormers will slip leaflets under your door, displaying a Post Office Box and a telephone number, and little else.
4. Some roofers live here in Northwood Hills.
5. Roofers calculate the size of your roof based on the number of "squares" (10x10 foot sections).
6. When two roofers measure the roof, you will get two different measurements. Three roofers mean three different numbers, etc. The insurance adjuster will come up with yet another measurement. This is sad, but true.
7. Due to the size of the catastophe, shingles are being allocated to the roofing companies (this is a short-term problem). Some companies are at the front of this queue (larger, reputable companies).
8. At the moment, all roofing companies are in desperate need of trained roofers.
   1. Ask if the roofers are bonded, licensed, etc.
   2. Ask about the size of the crew who will do the work. A small crew could require a week to replace your roof, while a large crew may complete the job in a single day.
   3. Many crews speak little or no English, so brush up on your Spanish!
9. Dallas code says contractors cannot start work before 7am. Call 911 to report abuses.
10. Oriented Strand Board is a type of sheathing. See the OSB FAQ
11. There's a small section here on the web site: How to find a reputable contractor

Asphalt shingles

1. There is a wide variance in shingle quality.
   1. Here is a website I found which describes how shingles are made. Another web site (Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association) also has a section entitled "Deciding If Your Home Needs a New Roof" with some good tips about using binoculars, and checking from the attic after a rain.
   2. Most asphalt shingles are rated from 30- to 50-year quality. This is an industry joke; they all know they will not last that long.
   3. If you want wood shingles (aesthetics), please think again. I recall an entire neighborhood (Spring Valley @ Preston) which burned several years ago; all had wood shingles and the fire from one simply lept to the next, and the next ...
2. As a rule, better shingles weigh more. The wooden beams that make up your roof may not be able to support the best quality ("50 year" ) shingles.
3. The better quality shingles often have granules on both sides.
4. One component of roof measurement is pitch (horizontal / vertical rise).
   1. My roof is a "4/12" (flatter) while my neighbor's is a 10/12 (steeper).
   2. After a roof passes 6/12 pitch, you should use better felt (30# vs 15#)
5. Your shingles may be "30 year rated" but that doesn't mean it will withstand even a single hailstorm.
6. You can save money by putting replacement shingles atop the existing ones (no removal of the existing layer). It is not recommended that you do this with more than two layers of shingles (weight, etc.)
7. Trivia: white shingles are not available in Texas!

For more information (reading list)

1. Selecting a Roofing Contractor for Residential Re-Roofing (RCAT website)
2. Residential contractors
   1. NTRCA contractors
   2. RCAT contractors
3. Trade Associations
   1. Roofing Contractors Association of Texas (RCAT)
   2. North Texas Roofing Contractors Association (NTRCA)
4. A different take on shingles, October 2002
5. Texas Department of Insurance: Re-roofing and Repairs
6. myhousepro.com : roofs (extensive!)